Paris Fashion Week: Acne Studios and the debate on deconstructed fashion

It’s no surprise that high fashion label Acne Studios has made a comeback on the fashion scene.

The Swedish brand returned to Paris Fashion Week last week to host its first fashion show since the start of the COVID-19 pandemic. Acne Studios has launched a fall collection, filled with sheer fabrics, deconstructed silhouettes and vibrant colors.

Acne Studios founder and designer Johnny Johansson has decided to take a fresh approach with his looks this season. Johansson brought square leather jackets, lace-up socks and wooden platform shoes to the track. The designer also went for hues of orange, cerulean blue, pastel yellow and even bright spring green.

The collection had elements of deconstruction, as threads were deliberately hung from the sleeves of the models.

Plain mode writer Rachel Douglass spoke about the historical references within the collection. “Corsets played a huge role in the collection, some designed with Baroque floral designs, reminiscent of medieval-style clothing but with futuristic twists,” Douglass wrote.

This season, the introduction of these futuristic pieces gives way to the deconstructionist movement. To fall under the category of “deconstruction”, clothes must look unfinished or in the process of being finished. They can also be taken apart and put together to form something new through techniques such as mixing fabrics or cutting out already finished silhouettes. There may also be exposed seams, hanging threads, or even holes.

According to Yugen, The origin of deconstructed fashion comes from three designers from the “royal family without a crown of destruction”: Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo and Martin Margiela.

During the 1980s, the fashion scene was overrun with designs considered refined and fitted. Yamamoto and Kawakubo sent frayed edges, tears, and layered fabrics to the catwalk, as well as loose, shapeless silhouettes.

These designs inspired designers like Margiela and Vivienne Westwood to create their own versions of deconstructed fashion, as Westwood would include rips and rips in its punk-inspired collections.

The term “deconstructionism” was coined by the French philosopher Jacques Derrida in the 1960s. From the fashion blog Make the unfinished, the term is “normally applied to text, but also describes breaking normal conventions and boundaries.” The term could not only be displayed through fashion, but also through architecture and music.

Even though deconstructionist clothing is made by elite fashion houses, the aesthetic has caught both fans and critics of the movement. The idea of ​​”looking poor” but selling the pieces for a high price made people not like the way the clothes were marketed.

In the 80s, The Washington Post recounted how Bloomingdale’s flaunted a “willow model in a dull colored, ragged and ragged dress”. A small demonstration of homeless people and their advocates formed outside the store. Their position accused the company of making fun of the poor just so the rich could dress like them.

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In 2015, Kanye West’s Yeezy line received the same reviews the distressed rapper-designer was selling sweaters for over $ 1,000.

Yet today there are more fans and critics via Twitter. Among those who support the movement, a Twitter user @samaradanielleb said: “The new deconstructed fashion is exactly what we needed. We are finally entering more futuristic designs.

On the contrary, the user @ sabrinaydm98 said: “Anti-fashion / deconstructed fashion can become a bunch of overpriced rags that are NOT worth the price.”

Ultimately, the era of deconstructed fashion is still here. From the 80s to the present day, we will see other collections highlighting the art of tearing and reassembling textiles.

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About Bernice D. Brewer

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